Charmouth Beach -
Scenes from its Past -
Part 2


THE WEB FRESHFORD SITE
This Talk to be given on Charmouth Beach is split into two parts.
Just click on Charmouth Beach - Scenes from its Past - Part 1 for the first part.

The second part of the Talk will cover the growth of it as a delightful unspoilt seaside village renowned for its fossils.

The Jubilee Shelter can be seen in the distance in this photograph taken in 1900 of a group of visitors playing a ball game on a field that was later to have Thalatta built on it.

This is a rare photograph dating back to 1890 showing how wide the loop of the river was at that time. The Cannons used by the Volunteers can be clearly seen in the foreground.

A line of horses wait outside the former Cement Works which was in a dilapidated state in 1900. The house on the right is Sanctuary Cottage and the Battery used by The Coastguards stands in between. The former Oxbow in the River Char taking it close to Lower Sea Lane is clearly shown here.

The Former building housing the Cement Works was never used again after the 1867 auction. Instead the Hunter Family stored their  fishing nets and Bathing Machines inside it.
The old photograph shows two Victorian ladies standing by one of the Horse and Carts that were filled with sand, stone and seaweed The horses were used to take the wheeled huts out to the water so that customers could bathe in privacy.Fishermen kept their boats and lobster pots in winter in the large room. Boy Scouts made it their Head Quarters and the upper floor was used for a miniature rifle range. The roof lost many slates and at one time the store room, which is now the cafe, was open to the skies. The engine and what remained of the machinery were removed in or about 1920. It remained Manor property until it was sold to Charmouth Parish Council with the foreshore in 1938.

The same view today after a few changes over the years!

Wilfred Hunter and the Rev. W. Harrison are seen here in 1890 hauling their boat on to Charmouth Beach.

An early photograph of some young children playing on the sands in front of two Bathing Machines.

An Edwardian lady relaxes with her dog on the cliffs at Charmouth. Bathing tents can be seen just below her and in the distance can be seen the Jubilee Shelter shortly before its destruction in 1910.

The two ended boats, bathing Machines and Bathing Tents  and bathing machines operated by the Hunter family are seen here on the West Beach.

Two young Edwardian ladies pose on the beach with two Bathing Machines behind them.

Young children with their pretty bonnets look back at us  on Charmouth Beach over a hundred years ago.

 A close up of one of the Bathing Machines that would have been a common sight in Victorian times.

A Mother and her daughters relax on one of the many small sailing boats to be found on Charmouth Beach over a hundred years ago. The distinctive shape of the Coastguard's Shed where they kept their Cannon is clearly seen in the background.

The fields above the beach in 1910 ready to be harvested. The roof line of the Red Bungalow can be seen on the left and below it the Battery used by the Coastguards.

A similar view to that previous but in full colour as depicted by A.R. Quinton about the same time.

The collection of Stone, Sand and Seaweed by horse and carts would have been a familiar sight in Edwardian times on Charmouth Beach.

In 1904 a passage was cut to be known after the contractor as “Hodders Gap” which cut off the bow and gave the river a straight shorter passage to the sea. Unfortunately, the river rapidly enlarged its passage at the New Cut, by eating away the sward until it reached and undermined the Jubilee Shelter, which totally disappeared not long after. The photograph shows John Hodder with his assistant at work. Their contract for the work and a map of the site are detailed above. 

The river as we see it today, but with an earlier bridge connecting the two sides, which was washed away in 1929.  

After the long ownership of the Manor by J.J. Coulton, the next potential buyer was unable to complete its purchase due to his untimely death. It was to be to his son, Douglas that the title Lord of the Manor of Charmouth was to be given in 1908 when he paid £1,400 for the Cement Mill with the surrounding 63 acres.
Alfred Douglas Pass became the new Lord of the Manor in 1906 when he was just 21. The illustration shows the long list of tenants included Richard Morgan who was renting Charmouth Stores and Francis Coles the Bakers from him.
His father Albert Capper Pass was born in Bristol in 1837, where his father worked as a metal refiner and dealer. They later moved to Bedminster into much larger premises and prospered by processing gold and silver as well as lead and copper. In 1870 his father died and he took the business over and it went from strength to strength under his guidance. The factory went over to making solder and doubled in size from 1875 to 1882. As well as an industrialist, he was very well educated and had many interests, especially archaeology. Up until 1894 when it became a limited company he was the sole owner. In the following year profits are shown as almost £12,000, most of which goes to Alfred. Towards the end of his life he seeks to become a country gentleman and endeavoured to create an estate based on Wootton Fitzpaine Manor. In 1895 he purchased this house with 1776 acres at auction. He later bought land in Fishponds, Hawkchurch, Monkton Wylde and Abbots Wootton. He added parts of Charmouth and a number of other properties until on his death the Estate totals nearly 5000 acres. The farming had previously been in a sorry state and he endeavoured to turn into a sporting and hunting estate employing many people from the villages. But sadly he did  not live long enough to enjoy it and died on October 4th 1905, aged 68 and his son Alfred Douglas Pass inherited a thriving metal refining and solder works..
Having originally owned Charmouth foreshore, he later sold it to the Parish Council. He also sold them their playing fields, and land for the tennis courts in Lower Sea Lane for nominal amounts. Much was given to Enter­prise Neptune, helping to buy the farms that now provide the wonderful walk from Golden Cap to Charmouth along the cliffs. He also gave them Lamberts Castle and much of Fishpond and his wife gave Coney's Castle to the National Trust. Most of the estate was disposed of after his death in 1970, though there are still links in Wootton with the family today.

Alfred Capper Pass, father of Douglas with his secretary on Charmouth Beach before his death in 1906.

A Map of the fields, beach and property in Green that Douglas Pass bought from the John Coulton Estate in 1908 for £1400

We are fortunate that Samuel Hansford, father of Barney, took a number of Candid photographs of Charmouth  in 1908 including the Beach. Some of these, often with his or the Pass family follow in the next few slides.

 
 
 
 
 

 A photograph of the Mackerel fishing. 93 year old former resident, Derrick Warren wrote twenty years ago about his memories of this as follows:
"boats had sails and would be launched from the beach. Quite rough seas - the oarsman always standing up to row with the other fisherman in their boats pushing the boat off through the breakers. It was all potting, long line, nets and during the summer (especially when the huge shoals of mackerels came in, someone was always posted up on the cliff to watch for the shoals to come in.one end of the nest would be put into a boat and rowed frantically around the shoal and back to the shore. Both ends of the net would then be pulled in (holiday makers encouraged) and the thousands of mackerel landed, to be hawked around the countryside the same day - even as far as. Chard or Ilminster". 

 
 
 
 

A superb study of an encampment of Scouts where the car park is today. In the distance is Sanctuary Cottage and other houses in Higher Sea Lane. They were there for the investiture of the Charmouth Patrols by the County Commissioner, Colonel Colfox on 30th July 1914.

A group of scouts mainly from the village are seen here on the beach.

Another photograph taken at the same time with the scouts lined up on the beach.

The Scouts are seen here getting ready for a swim. In the background is the Old Cement Works which they used as a base.

Fields of Tents for visiting scouts was a common sight in Charmouth between the wars.

Scouts are shown here playing on the beach. In the distance is smoke coming from the former Rubbish Tip.

A photograph from the 1920`s of Charmouth with bathing tents on the Beach before the huts were constructed. A number of the Lerret fishing boats can be seen. One of which has been bought up the bank next to an old Caravan.

Two young children look out from their Beach Hut in the 1920`s

An early photograph of the large number of Beach Huts that were constructed above the beach.

A close up of five that appear newly built below the old Look Out.

Tom Hunter is seen here by his fishing boat repairing nets on Charmouth Beach. He was the son of Robert Hunter and as a lad used to accompany E.C.H. Day, the famous geologist when he was making detailed observations on the Liassic strata east of Charmouth in the 1860s. In this way he picked up a good working knowledge of the succession of the main beds and the horizons at which saleable fossils were found.
He taught swimming,and was himself a powerful swimmer. He was seldom, if ever overtaken in the Duck Hunts at the Charmouth Regattas, when he took the part of "Duck". When his brother, Wilfred gave up the bathing machines, Tom became owner. It was the custom in the 1880s and 1890s for the ladies to bathe from the beach. There was no mixed bathing, and Tom was often known to ask gentleman to move away from the machine when ladies were bathing. 

As the number of visitors increased, tents were to supplement the machines. These Tom manufactured himself during the winter months, and later on he made a few huts.

For many years he was a familiar figure on the beach and was known to many visitors as its first custodian. Here he is seen in 1923 leaning against the fence that surrounded the Coastguards Look Out at that time. He died in 1936 aged 79 after many years of service to the village.

Ted  Hunter is seen here in his roll as Beach Attendant – a position he held for many rears. He was born in 1886 to Tom and Jane Hunter and served in the Royal Navy from 1904 until 1919.

Claud Hider was to record Charmouth in a number of photographic postcards in 1922 to 1924. These are very rare as only a few would be produced for sale in the village Post Office, then near the Church. There follows some of those that  have been collected over the years that capture the village so well in those years.

The two ended Lerrets used for catching Mackerell are lined up along the beach near the huts and tents.

 

This shows the field in 1922 in  which Thalatta was to be built the following year. The Pony belonged to the lady who lived in the Red Bungalow on the right. Higher Sea Lane was then just a  rough track leading down to the sea.

This postcard can be easily dated to 1923 as it shows Thalatta being built in the middle. The large House on the right is Hammoinds Mead that was built for Miss Evans.

Another photograph from 1923 with Thalatta without a roof and a large number of Scouts Tents in the field behind it.

A photograph soon after Thalatta had been built behind the old Cement Works.

 

A family enjoying The East Beach

A Postcard produced by Claud Hider of a Guide Camp at the former Cement Works (now the Heritage Centre) in 1923.

Ivan Gollop  was a Coal Merchant and Haulier. He is seen here with Muriel, Norman, Spencer  Gollop outside the former Cement Works, now the Heritage Centre. At the top of the Street was a coal yard opposite Nutcombe Terrace which was run by a relation - Spencer Gollop.

Mrs West is seen here in 1930 opening the new Bridge which was only recently replaced after many years of service. This beautiful coloured plan commemorating The New Bridge was found in the damp Cellar of The Elms and is now on display in The Pavey Rooms of The Elms. It details that it was built by Mr. John West of Luttrell House, Charmouth, assisted by Mr. Fred Penny and many other local residents at the cost of £193. Opened by Mrs. West on August 4th 1930. The estimate for building by a Bristol Firm was £310. 

Charmouth had originally a defensive role, but as 2nd world war went on this became offensive and the village adapted accordingly, leading up to the D Day landings. Many of the village men were called away to the armed services and the women were drawn into essential industries and farm work and there was also the arrival of the evacuees. Even as early as 1939, British troops were billeted in the village who were concerned with coastal defence.
Here are The Charmouth pages from the Women's Institute`s War Records book. It shows the Evacuees that arrived. It also depicts the land mine that had gone off on the Stonebarrow Cliff; apparently by a cow stepping on to it and that the poor beast had its head blown off by the explosion.
Another page shows Villagers raising money towards HMS Dorsetshire. They also are pictured entertaining the Signal regiment to a meal in their canteen. Much of their spare time was taken up repairing nets. They humorously picture the Home Guard in action.

This early postcard records how visitors would camp out in the early Caravan Parks.

There follows some old postcards of the beach hand coloured before full colour printing.

 
 

A photograph taken in the 1940`s with the car park then operated by Billy Gear on the right.

An aerial photograph of Charmouth in 1947,showing the line of concrete Anti Tank emplacements along the beach, some of which can still be seen today. These were known as "Dragons Teeth" and were originally linked together with metal poles to form a barrier if the Germans landed with their tanks. A number of the fields can be seen with Allotments, which were encouraged.

A photo taken after the war with a section of the anti tank emplacements still to be seen along the shore.They werte known as Dragons Teeth and were originally linked together with metal poles to form a barrier.Hammonds Mead Hotel and its large grounds can be seen on the left.

This photograph gives us an idea today of how the beach must have looked ready for an invasion.

Holiday makers would sit in their deckchairs surrounded by the concrete dragons teeth after the war.

A Postcard of Beach shortly after the end of the War showing the line of Dragons Teeth stretching along the shore.

There follows a number of photographs lent by Alec Aldworth of his family on the beach. This clearly shows some of the Anti Tank blocks in the background which still formed a line along the shore in the 1950s.

 
 

Another superb photo of the Allworth's on the East Beach.

The fields around Charmouth were popular with Scouts who would cover the area with their tents. Here is the local Group in 1950 with Charmouth Stores owner, Donald Dampier with a young Ron Dampier at the back on the right and John Bragg whose family owned the other Grocers at the front on the left.

Charmouth Beach in 1953 with a line of cars parked by the Old Cement factory.

The Car Park as it would have appeared in 1953.

From left to right are Cedric Edwards, Johnny Davis, Philip Forsey, Malorie Hayter, Myra Edwards who pose for a photograph in the 1950s above the Beach Car Park.

1953 was the year of the Coronation and Charmouth produced a Guide to the village full of adverts of Hotels, Businesses and attractions that it offered. There follows some of these to show what we are missing today.

 
 

Newlands Caravan site and Sales were regular advertisers in the annual Charmouth Guide as is shown here.They had to fight many appeals before being accepted, but now form an important part of the Community with their support of local businesses.

During the spring of 1954 severe gales so damaged the concrete walls of the Car Park that they had to be entirely rebuilt. Here are some of the photographs taken of the workmen outside what was to become the Heritage Centre.

 
 
 

In 1945, Miss Evans, who owned the land on each side of the River mouth, gave the marsh and all that lay between the marsh and the property already acquired by the Parish Council to the Village on condition that it was left as it was, and no hut or other building (except under the Vineyard) erected on it, also the field on the cliff running from the river up to and including the Vineyard. Since the Village already owned the foreshore from 1936, this generous gift gave Charmouth almost complete control of the beach and the ground behind it. After the war it was run as a Hotel, but has since been demolished and housing built on the site. It had been one of a number of large Hotels that had formerly provided accommodation to visitors in the past.

This photograph is of the garden behind the Sea Horse Hotel which went back over 200 years. It stood part way down Higher Sea Lane and was demolished and replaced with an apartment block in 1991.

Charmouth House Hotel  on the corner of Higher Sea Lane had formerly been the Fountain Inn with a history right back to when it was owned by the Monks of Forde Abbey. This wonderful photograph from their brochure reveals the large swimming Pool behind it, now sadly filled in and part of the garden of one of the residences that were later formed from the Hotel.

This is an early photograph of the Tea Gardens that stood at the bottom of Lower sea Lane. We have yet to find any photos of the Zoo, but the next few images were taken of it and the area around before they were developed.

The Little Tea Gardens at the bottom of Lower Sea Lane as it appeared in the 1950s.

Another view of the same building painted red, white and blue in 1977, the year of the Silver Jubilee.

Now replaced by housing which incorporates the former name.

A view of children on the beach in the 1960s,little changed from today. In the background can be seen the old Cement Works which was to become the popular Heritage Centre. Cars of those far off days can be seen in front with a Ford Anglia and Volkswagon Camper Van amongst them.

A photograph from the 1960s of the Caravans at Seadown in rows along the field.

In 1968 Barney Hansford opened his collection of fossils and later his Country Life Exhibition. He became a well-known figure and was often interviewed on T.V. Illness forced its closure in 1986. He is seen here with one of his many finds on Charmouth Beach.

The Heritage Centre before it was opened in1985. The Beach Café is still there, at that time it was run by Barney Hansford who advertises his collection of Fossils.

The Heritage Centre in the 1970s

A busy  Charmouth Beach in 1970 with the yellow Cabin in the foreground, then run by Barnie Hansford for the sale of Ice-creams and refreshments.

This is Charmouth Beach in the summer of 1968 which shows how popular it was. At that time the police would stop people driving down Lower Sea Lane after the car parks were soon filled up in the morning rush.

Although Charmouth can get busy in the Summer, it does not compare with this photo taken in August 1971 with virtually every inch covered with holidaymakers.

A view looking down on to the beach in the 1970s. Hammonds Mead Hotel can be seen in the centre before it was later demolished for housing.

In April 1989, Charmouth hit the headlines when a storm wrecked a pipeline used by a dredger to cut a trench in the sea bed off Charmouth for a Sewer Pipe.

This aerial photograph taken in 1990  shows the Bypass  being built and the sewage Pipes  seen in the Beach Car Park were being laid out to see.

And so ends our look back at Charmouth Beach over the centuries. It still remains relatively unspoilt after all this time and long may it remain so.